D’SCENE: MENSWEAR AND DECONSTRUCTED FORMALITY

THE DESIGNERS RESHAPING THE MENSWEAR SCENE AND PUSHING FORWARD COME WITH A GENUINE UNDERSTANDING OF HOW MEN WANT TO DRESS.

What do young designers think men want today? Rebellion. It’s a curt and quick answer, they do not care to expand on their decision, yet their designs make sense to the audience they are designing for. For at least four seasons in a row designers such as Gosha Rubchinskiy, Demna Gvasalia and his respective Vetements and Balenciaga labels have brought a surge of post-soviet influenced menswear to the stage. See a collection made up entirely of formal suiting, is becoming a rare occasion, albeit suiting where the usual hard lines and strong shapes dominated are now often replaced with seldom infusion of sweatpants, tracksuits and tights. There have been huge changes in men’s fashion over the last two years, thanks in no small part to the fact that a changing economy has forced both men and women to reconsider what they want their wardrobe to look like. The sentiment of formality which is the core of men’s fashion has shifted, perhaps even mutated. For a lot of men who traditionally have a bit of clarity in the way they dress, the runways are bringing in a bit of an awkward path, where taking on a relationship with a brand is not bringing a lot of reassurance.

Further analysis takes you to conclusion the menswear labels and their respective designers that are still keeping up with their relevance nowadays are the ones with the most poignant and strongest directive. The ones who manage to maintain enough of a commercial edge to actually have a dose of mainstream appeal, however at the same time are not afraid to reevaluate what men want. These houses look at the formality and ask how it was changed, when is the right time to make a change and whether or not anyone will care in the end.(...)
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